Exposure Correction V2 200T
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
Exposure Correction V2 200T
It's been quite a while, but I started reading this forum again a few weeks ago. I suppose I might as well be new.
Question #1
I did a search of posts and this is what I believe to be fact for Canon 814/1014 XL-S users:
If you shoot an unmodified V2 200T cartridge from Kodak the internal meter will read it as 100ASA and overexpose by exactly 1 f-stop.
So, if your internal meter is reading an f-stop of 4 you must actually stop the camera down to 5.6 to "nail" the exposure. Is this correct?
Question #2
The Exposure Compensation Dial:
I have never used this dial before, but I know that it adjusts the aperature in 1/3 stop increments up to +/- 1 f-stop.
So, assuming the above statement is correct, if my meter is reading an f-stop of 4, but I only want to overexpose by 1/3 of a stop would I be correct in turning the dial in the +2/3 direction?
Thanks,
Brad
Question #1
I did a search of posts and this is what I believe to be fact for Canon 814/1014 XL-S users:
If you shoot an unmodified V2 200T cartridge from Kodak the internal meter will read it as 100ASA and overexpose by exactly 1 f-stop.
So, if your internal meter is reading an f-stop of 4 you must actually stop the camera down to 5.6 to "nail" the exposure. Is this correct?
Question #2
The Exposure Compensation Dial:
I have never used this dial before, but I know that it adjusts the aperature in 1/3 stop increments up to +/- 1 f-stop.
So, assuming the above statement is correct, if my meter is reading an f-stop of 4, but I only want to overexpose by 1/3 of a stop would I be correct in turning the dial in the +2/3 direction?
Thanks,
Brad
Yes, keep in mind too, the camera will disable the internal filter no matter what. use an external 85 or 85B for daylight.If you shoot an unmodified V2 200T cartridge from Kodak the internal meter will read it as 100ASA and overexpose by exactly 1 f-stop.
So, if your internal meter is reading an f-stop of 4 you must actually stop the camera down to 5.6 to "nail" the exposure. Is this correct?
No, +1/3So, assuming the above statement is correct, if my meter is reading an f-stop of 4, but I only want to overexpose by 1/3 of a stop would I be correct in turning the dial in the +2/3 direction?
100D and Vision 3 please
T-Scan thanks for the reply. I'll remember to use a screw on 85 filter if I go outside.T-Scan wrote:Yes, keep in mind too, the camera will disable the internal filter no matter what. use an external 85 or 85B for daylight.If you shoot an unmodified V2 200T cartridge from Kodak the internal meter will read it as 100ASA and overexpose by exactly 1 f-stop.
So, if your internal meter is reading an f-stop of 4 you must actually stop the camera down to 5.6 to "nail" the exposure. Is this correct?
No, +1/3So, assuming the above statement is correct, if my meter is reading an f-stop of 4, but I only want to overexpose by 1/3 of a stop would I be correct in turning the dial in the +2/3 direction?
As to the exposure correction dial I'm still a bit confused.
The internal meter is reading a 4, but I know that to "nail" the exposure it must be a 5.6. I want to overexpose the shot by exactly 1/3 of a stop.
Does the + direction on the dial close down or open up from what the camera is reading?
If the + direction closes down would it not be +2/3 to be exactly 1/3 over 5.6?
4 - 4 1/3 - 4 2/3 - 5.6
4 - 5.6 2/3 - 5.6 1/3 - 5.6
Thanks,
Brad
Ahh, I misunderstood the first Q. If you want to still overexpose by 1/3, then you will go -2/3 on the dial. + opens, - closes. the f stop reading in the viewfinder will remain the same. The best method with the XLS is to take your reading by lightly supressing the trigger, turn exposure lock dial to prevent fluxuation, then go -2/3rds on the comp dial.The internal meter is reading a 4, but I know that to "nail" the exposure it must be a 5.6. I want to overexpose the shot by exactly 1/3 of a stop.
100D and Vision 3 please
Thanks T-scan.
That helps out a bunch.
Last question on this topic and I will cease and desist. This is actually more about the camera itself.
Do you have to reset the exposure comp dial to (0) before metering every time you compose a new shot?
For example, if I know that I want every shot to be exactly 1/3 of a stop over exposed can I leave the dial set at (-2/3), compose shot, meter like normal, lock down meter and shoot?
Or will this method throw off the initial internal light meter reading?
Brad
That helps out a bunch.
Last question on this topic and I will cease and desist. This is actually more about the camera itself.
Do you have to reset the exposure comp dial to (0) before metering every time you compose a new shot?
For example, if I know that I want every shot to be exactly 1/3 of a stop over exposed can I leave the dial set at (-2/3), compose shot, meter like normal, lock down meter and shoot?
Or will this method throw off the initial internal light meter reading?
Brad
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V2 200T is supposed to have quite a bit of latitude. I'm testing a couple of cartridges right now. I shot the first in St. Louis at the Gateway arch. I cut a filter notch so the cam would expose at ASA 160, 1/3 stop over.
For the second cartridge I cut a filter notch plus I plugged an insert into the film speed notch. The camera should rate it as ASA 40, or 2 & 1/3 stops over. According to John Pytlak the film should handle it and come out with reduced grain. I'm going to shoot it this weekend. We'll see.
For the second cartridge I cut a filter notch plus I plugged an insert into the film speed notch. The camera should rate it as ASA 40, or 2 & 1/3 stops over. According to John Pytlak the film should handle it and come out with reduced grain. I'm going to shoot it this weekend. We'll see.
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You definitely can.freddiesykes wrote:Couldn't one just use the manual exposure dial instead of messing with the compensation dial?
I thought it might be a good short cut, though, if I shoot unmodified carts of V2 200T and want to "nail" the exposure at the speed the film is rated; or want to consistenly over expose by exactly 1/3 stop, 2/3 stop, etc.
Basically, it just takes one step out of the process.
Brad
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not quite right.T-Scan wrote:Ahh, I misunderstood the first Q. If you want to still overexpose by 1/3, then you will go -2/3 on the dial. + opens, - closes. the f stop reading in the viewfinder will remain the same. The best method with the XLS is to take your reading by lightly supressing the trigger, turn exposure lock dial to prevent fluxuation, then go -2/3rds on the comp dial.The internal meter is reading a 4, but I know that to "nail" the exposure it must be a 5.6. I want to overexpose the shot by exactly 1/3 of a stop.
the f/t stop in the vf is adjusted accordingly.
chck with no cart n no fil = 400 sharp n easy to check.
..tnx for reminding me Michael Lehnert.... or Santo or.... cinematography.com super8 - the forum of Rednex, Wannabees and Pretenders...
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For what it's worth, while I was at the Gateway Arch in St. Louis I also shot a cart of V2 500T. The museum under the arch is poorly lit. I didn't bother to meter, just put the camera on manual and opened the shutter all the way up. Probably still underexposed. Again, we'll see. I'll send it in with the 200T.