Ektachrome 64T

[richardsnow]

i just thought I'd post about my 1st experiance with the new Kodak film.

I've actually had about a 18 month break from super 8 filming as i'd been busy with other stuff. So I wasn't aware of Kodak K 40 being not available until January this year. I went along to my stockist and was given the 64T stuff instead.

I shoved it straight in my camera without reading up about it assuming it was a like for like replacement of K40. I shot about 1/3rd of the cart before I read up about it on the internet. I read on some site's that certain cameras will not meter correctly with it etc..
My Chinon 506 smxl is one of those cams that only detects 40/160 asa so I figured that the first 1/3 was going to come out over exposed. No matter, My chinon has auto exposure adjustment, so I lowered it the appropriate amount to film the rest.

To my surprise, when the film was processed the whole thing came out beautifully.
My point is that some sites are saying that those kind of camera's are pretty useless now there is no K40. But obvioulsy in some cases it's not so.
My chinon metered with it very nicely , even though it's not made to.

[Mogzy]

Maybe these films have more latitude than we're led to believe. I have shot Ektachrome 125, Plus X (100ASA) and Tri X in a Sankyo EM-40XL 40/160 only camera (which won't even do 25D/100D without filter!) and the results have been pleasing. Must try 64T in it now!

The advice given in the Widescreen Centre newsletter was that most auto exposure systems are only approximate anyway and so 64T should give useable results in a 40/160 only camera if it reads the film at 40ASA.

Any other experiences of 64T in a 40/160 only camera?

[richardsnow]

Yeh I guess the vital factor is if your camera reads it as 40 or 160

I've heard that the Canon 514Xl reads it as 160 and so its all dark.
I have one of those but didn't test it on auto exposre. I used the ee lock to correct it. Which came out fine btw.

[T-Scan]

so I figured that the first 1/3 was going to come out over exposed. No matter, My chinon has auto exposure adjustment, so I lowered it the appropriate amount to film the rest.

Congratulations! You may be the first 40/160 camera owner to spearhead this concept. I did the same thing with velvia 50D last week, and it's not hard. locking your exposure is good practice when shooting anyway, then just make the adjustment.

[Angus]

We know from the test posted here that 64T over exposed by 2/3 stop looks blown out.

However maybe our new friend's Chinon was under exposing a little to begin with...or maybe he is satisfied with an image that many of us would find too light.

Only time will tell how much of a problem this is...but generally reversal film does NOT respond well to over exposure...lattitude typically being around 1/3 stop. It usually responds better to under exposure.

[John_Pytlak]

...but generally reversal film does NOT respond well to over exposure...lattitude typically being around 1/3 stop. It usually responds better to under exposure.

Although some here have noted that the E64T has more latitude and is a bit more forgiving of misexposure than K40 was.

I agree, some cameras did not give precise exposure, and exposure calibration may change with camera age or battery condition. I also suspect that the orange daylight correction filters in some cameras may have changed/faded with age.

[S8 Booster]

just did some "tests" with the e64t at 0 +1/3 -1/3 and found it rather forgiving. here are some totally diy transferred images which of course is way off a professional transfer reference but may give an indication. proper transfer planned later. shot with 85b filter.

all images can be magnified by a click.

-1/3


00


+1/3


just add the e125 for a sort of reference. not satisfied with the e6 processing. gone less "sharp". exposed t 80.



for reference of transfer tech only - exactly the same as above - plusx at 00.

[Mitch Perkins]

just did some "tests" with the e64t at 0 +1/3 -1/3 and found it rather forgiving. here are some totally diy transferred images which of course is way off a professional transfer reference but may give an indication. proper transfer planned later. shot with 85b filter.

Those are pretty gorgeous frames. Very pleased at the lack of "pinkiness", which I thought was inherent. Truth be told, I couldn't see any real difference between the stops...should go back and gaze some more - not a chore with these beatiful stills.

Mitch

[Justin Lovell]

hey mitch,

If you're referring to the pinkness that you see from 64t processed in VNF... You can tell its not right if you look at the end of the reel, where the film is completely overexposed, the film base is ... pink, not clear.

in e-6 chemistry, it is ..clear.

strangely enough, the image seems to have more latitude when processed in the wrong chemistry. I think this may have something to do with the blue grain being activated more so... hard to explain... could just be a trick of the eye, where there isn't really blacks, so it 'seems' like the shadows have more detail.

[Angus]

Although I prefer the under exposure, in this test the + 1/3 looks OK. I can see that if, perhaps, the Chinon referred to was under exposing a little...an uncorrected automatic shot would look acceptable.

Only time will tell in general how well 40/160 cameras handle 64T. I've got rid of the cams I had which couldn't correctly expose a wider variety of speeds.

[S8 Booster]

just did some "tests" with the e64t at 0 +1/3 -1/3 and found it rather forgiving. here are some totally diy transferred images which of course is way off a professional transfer reference but may give an indication. proper transfer planned later. shot with 85b filter.

Those are pretty gorgeous frames. Very pleased at the lack of "pinkiness", which I thought was inherent. Truth be told, I couldn't see any real difference between the stops...should go back and gaze some more - not a chore with these beatiful stills.

Mitch

in the image below ive marked the areas which to me is easiest to spot the difference but it is always easier to see on a film in motion.

as for the colours they are better "live" the colour palette is supressed a bit from the transfer. much more clean on real stuff.

as for exposure i find the -1/3 setting prefferable as it seems to bring a better balance and/or "definition" in the areas marked.

in 00 exposure setting i generally find the film generally a bit over exposed.

click for size

[richardsnow]

there's not a lot in it is there?

Talk on one website was that 64T would kill off any new interest in super as beginners would not be able to pick up a cheap camera and put some K40 in it.
However it seems that they will still be able to pick up a cheap camera and put some 64 T in it and get a usable result.

[Mogzy]

I wonder whether it makes a difference whether one is using it in daylight with filter or in tungsten?

There is a 2/3 stop exposure difference between exposing at 64T and 40T (a speed difference of 24ASA)

WHEREAS

In daylight with a filter the camera will be exposing for 25D (with filter) when the film is rated at 40D with filter (a speed difference of only 15 ASA).

Will this mean that the difference between correct and actual exposure will be LESS than 2/3 stop and thus give a more acceptable result in a 40/160 camera reading it at 40T/25D?

If so what is the difference in exposure (in f. stops) when shooting in daylight with filter?

[T-Scan]

In daylight with a filter the camera will be exposing for 25D (with filter) when the film is rated at 40D with filter (a speed difference of only 15 ASA).

Still 2/3rds

[Mogzy]

How does that work out?