Fuji 250T in K3

[studiocarter]

I remember a while ago that someone posted problems with their R8 or DS8 camera pulling Foma or a similar Eastern European film and it was found that the film was slightly thicker than Kodak and also not lubricated well.

That was my post. The camera was the problem. It died. I shot it with lube spray, and it lives again. However, I havn't tried more film in it. The motor got so stiff that it would not even run without any film it it. So, perhaps it is the K3 that has the problem here and not the film. My RX-1 takeup reel began to stop taking up film and it is the belt that is bad, not that any film is harder to pull. A properly working camera should pull any kind of film, Foma, Fuji or Kodak.

[Arriflex]

Use Kodak film? :?:

Shut up already.

[John_Pytlak]

Use Kodak film? :?:

Shut up already.

So I'm biased.

At least you know who I am and where I work. I don't hide my loyalties behind a pseudonymn.

[tlatosmd]

That's no way to talk to anyone here Arriflex, especially not to John who's representing Kodak here as helpfully as he can.

[Will2]

If the film is not properly advancing past the gate, it seems like the film is not seated properly in the claw.

Once you make the top and bottom loops, stick a finger on the inside of each loop and wiggle it back & forth until it doesn't move easily either way.

While I agree that you should avoid the plastic take-up reels at all costs, it seems like the film would be advancing past the gate but geting stuck on the bottom half of the loop if the problem was the reel.

[Arriflex]

That's no way to talk to anyone here Arriflex, especially not to John who's representing Kodak here as helpfully as he can.

Anytime someone has a problem with kodak, correct answer would be "change a brand"? That's no helping, that's more like marketing.
Maybe I did break a rule, but so did he.
And I did see that smile there, but I still think that's annoying.

[John_Pytlak]

That's no way to talk to anyone here Arriflex, especially not to John who's representing Kodak here as helpfully as he can.

Anytime someone has a problem with kodak, correct answer would be "change a brand"? That's no helping, that's more like marketing.
Maybe I did break a rule, but so did he.
And I did see that smile there, but I still think that's annoying.

Sevensword25's original posting clearly stated the problem only occured with Fuji. So normal problem solving technique would be to try other films to understand the difference. I'm an engineer, not a marketer.

[Arriflex]

(o come on..)

If I remember right, sevensword25 bought his k3 just recently. So would probably be a good idea to try it again.

[lastcoyote]

sevensword25 I suggest you try it one more time. I had the same experience like you before.

Try this again, you cut a little bit of the film at the start (Around half inches)... when you cut it, try to cut it right in the middle of the hole as follow:



I had problem like you do, but after I try to load it either manual load or auto load. When I cut a little off like this.. never had any problem then.

I suggest you try it this way before you take it to fix. Also.. REMEMBER!!! DON'T USE THE PLASTIC TAKE UP SPOOL PROVIDE WITH K-3... 99% of film jam cause by them!

[sevensword25]

sevensword25 I suggest you try it one more time. I had the same experience like you before.

Try this again, you cut a little bit of the film at the start (Around half inches)... when you cut it, try to cut it right in the middle of the hole as follow:



I had problem like you do, but after I try to load it either manual load or auto load. When I cut a little off like this.. never had any problem then.

I suggest you try it this way before you take it to fix. Also.. REMEMBER!!! DON'T USE THE PLASTIC TAKE UP SPOOL PROVIDE WITH K-3... 99% of film jam cause by them!

Thanks, I'll do that. BTW: I never use those plastic takeups, I use only metal ones.

Kev

[zaefod]

Fuji did have a student discount at one point...

Good Luck

they offer the 20/20 deal. 20% of the film ordered for free and 20% off the rest. If you order the F series, then they might cut you an even better deal.

[BigBeaner]

they offer the 20/20 deal. 20% of the film ordered for free and 20% off the rest. If you order the F series, then they might cut you an even better deal.

That's a little confusing, is there anywhere that has their normal prices? Plus I think if I only bought 2 100' of Fuji, in this situation, it would be just the same as Kodak with student discount.

[Evan Kubota]

Unlike Kodak, Fuji has their prices easily accessible: ;)

http://www.fujifilm.com/JSP/fuji/epartn ... ct=2301240

I'm going to go with the 400' color neg stock/processing/best light pack for my film this summer. $180 from Cinelab comes out to $45 per 100' shot processed and transferred. That's way less than it would cost to shoot 400' of Kodak color neg.

[BigBeaner]

Unlike Kodak, Fuji has their prices easily accessible:

Ahaaha, I've been looking for that. Last time it sent me to a list of Fujifilm dealers and I believe only two came up and the only reason why I have idea of Kodak and their adjusted price is from actually stopping by at NYC. Kodak should have something along these lines though.

I don't know I have to think more and probably stick with kodak for this current project because I already have Vision2 500T and would like a daylight balanced film but I can't decide if slower or a more medium would be the choice (50D versus 250D). It seems like most of the outdoor scenes will be early morning to afternoon. The 500T seems like too much to begin with but my K3 did come with the ND.04 filter, so in daylight it would be 320 with the daylight filter but including that ND?

Decisions... Decisions...

[Evan Kubota]

320ASA is still pretty fast even in dim daylight. I did a film on Tri-X (200 ASA) and it was still fast - in very late afternoon in a dense forest I was usually at f/4 or f/5.6.