Question about K-3

[lastcoyote]

:oops: Sorry guys I know this is not about 8mm or Super8 but as long as it's about filmshooting should be okay right?

I have questions about the K-3, I wonder since the structure of K-3 doesn't have the light loss of prism mirror.. (light directly goes to film) so what I read from light meter can be the actual aperture need for the film right?... and would like to know one more thing. The imagine I saw from the viewfinder, as long as it is correctly set to fit my eye's sight... then what I saw is what I get about the focusing right?

:lol: Sorry about the stupid questions... look forward for your kindly help.

Thanks guys!

[clivetobin]

:... I wonder since the structure of K-3 doesn't have the light loss of prism mirror.. (light directly goes to film) so what I read from light meter can be the actual aperture need for the film right?... and would like to know one more thing. The imagine I saw from the viewfinder, as long as it is correctly set to fit my eye's sight... then what I saw is what I get about the focusing right?...

This is correct. By the way the butterfly shutter is equivalent to 150 degrees which is about 1/58 second at 24 and 1/60 at 25 FPS.

In my experience the rotating mirror is not perfectly flat so you may get a bit of a viewfinder image quivering effect while running. I suppose the focus through the viewfinder is set so that it is correct when the camera is stopped.

[BK]

Don't forget to compensate the slight light loss with the lens as well lastcoyote if you are metering manually.

Will you be shooting negative or reversal?

I have a test report of the camera, PM me.

Bill

[scott]

Have you considered removing the loop formers? In my opinion, the camera is much easier to load and runs with less problems if you remove the loop formers and load manually.

Scott

[lastcoyote]

Have you considered removing the loop formers? In my opinion, the camera is much easier to load and runs with less problems if you remove the loop formers and load manually.

Scott

Well, totally agree and the autoload is not reliable at all. I do the loading manually. And I will pull back a couple of frames to make sure the film is not touching the loop formers. I was told it causes the scratches. But isn't removing loop formers need to open up the the machanisium of the camera?

I saw from the forum that if I open up the camera is easy.. but reassemble is HARD.

[scott]

I saw from the forum that if I open up the camera is easy.. but reassemble is HARD.

I was offering this service for a short time, but business was slow/non-existant, so I stopped. If you are mechanically inclined at all, it is not very difficult. I think the difficulty has been a bit overblown. Patience is the critical factor. I can dig up some instructions and send them to you if you want.

Scott

[lastcoyote]

I saw from the forum that if I open up the camera is easy.. but reassemble is HARD.

I was offering this service for a short time, but business was slow/non-existant, so I stopped. If you are mechanically inclined at all, it is not very difficult. I think the difficulty has been a bit overblown. Patience is the critical factor. I can dig up some instructions and send them to you if you want.

Scott

Yeah Scott, that will be great if you can dig up something for me. Thanks.