alan doyle wrote:i was having a sort out yesterday and came across a nordmende colourvision cc5.451,flying spot scanner telecine machine.
it works,it's transfers super 8 and outputs via video out lead so you can connect it to any video recorder.
it's got a full service manual,and is the size of about 3 vhs machine.
made in west germany in 1977.
any body interested,not for free though.
I read an 'essay' on this machine. Dreamt up by a mad man, it was ahead of its time. But then most of these monstrous machines are dreamt up by mad men :twisted:
Quit beating around the bush Alan How much do you want for it!
I am interested in seeing Sonic Truth getting it :lol:
i work in telly,so i use the best telecine machines in the world.
london is one of the best tv commercials centres in the world,as a result
post houses spend 1-5 million dollars upgrading facilities.
so itk millenium, spirit, sony vialta and rank cintel c-reality mega def are the latest hi def machines,with basic purchase prices between 700k and 1.2 million us dollars.
now for telly stuff the oldest machine i will use is the rank cintel ursa diamond,this machine is about 7 years old.
now before that machine you had rank 4-22,and before that you had
what the bozos in pro 8mm have a rank mk111,so the technology is a bit
old,maybe 12 or 14 years old. now they would say we have upgraded but you know sticking the latest bmw gear box in a russian trabant,does not make it a super duper sports vehicle.
the nordmende is good but in the context of the time,1974 technology.
having said that i'm sure an electronics boffin could improve it even more.
thanks for the link andreas ... i read that article a month or so ago, and did not remember. it did not state the picture quality. but after reviewing the article again, it would probably be more worth while purchasing a workprinter ... less hassle. unless the image quality ws superior, in that case it may be worth it.
eric martin jarvies
#7 avenido jarvies
pueblo viejo
cabo san lucas, baja california sur. mexico
cp 23410
044 624 141 9661
I also have been trying to get one for a while. It would be interesting to see the manual and indeed to hear a report of your telecine results using the machine. I am light of cash but I do have a spare Philips DVD 1000 mark 1 DVD Recorder if your interested.
In the scientific community there are several scanner type 32 bit cameras that are used on microscopes for data acquisition. Many have c-mounts and very high-resolution with SCSI interfaces or FireWire 1394. Why adapt a flat bed scanner when superior technology exists? I made a film scanner with a Kodak USB microscope camera and a Sony c-mount 45mm macro lens with a 12 Volt DC Neon white lamp for the inside of a computer case as the light source (very little heat). The film transport is an old Kodak projector that I gutted and replaced the AC motor with a DC motor. I slow the motor down so the film moves at 1 frame every 3 seconds. There is a magnetic reed switch that is triggered by a tiny magnet on the main drive shaft which trips the camera trigger button. Sound kind of Rube Goldberg but it works! The cameras resolution is 640 X 480 so its not the best quality but all I need to do is get a better camera to increase the resolution.
that sounds cool. could you be so kind as to post a photo or diagram of your invention? also, how does the computer register the capture process? also, do the frames have any jitter, or do they have alignment problems when played back on your computer? it would be to be able to have a device that could both scan movies, and allow framegrabs for those images that one wants to blow up and print.
eric martin jarvies
#7 avenido jarvies
pueblo viejo
cabo san lucas, baja california sur. mexico
cp 23410
044 624 141 9661
that sounds cool. could you be so kind as to post a photo or diagram of your invention? also, how does the computer register the capture process? also, do the frames have any jitter, or do they have alignment problems when played back on your computer? it would be to be able to have a device that could both scan movies, and allow framegrabs for those images that one wants to blow up and print.
Here are some pictures. This is in the early, early development stages so it looks very crude, but it works. The frames are transfered by USB cable as 640X480 TIF's. Registration is good and focus is by a X Y macro stage. Here are the location of the pix, click the link>
well, i am impresed with both your contraption, and that other device available for purchase. on the latter, i suppose one could use a nice digital still camera connected directly to a computer and shoot nice high res frame by frame images for use as printable material, or frames used for compositing, or frames used for assembly into a movie. thank you for sharing this with me ... something new to think about and discover
eric martin jarvies
#7 avenido jarvies
pueblo viejo
cabo san lucas, baja california sur. mexico
cp 23410
044 624 141 9661
paulcotto wrote:
Here are some pictures. This is in the early, early development stages so it looks very crude, but it works. The frames are transfered by USB cable as 640X480 TIF's. Registration is good and focus is by a X Y macro stage. Here are the location of the pix, click the link
Cool! Looks great! Any photos of the completed unit? Is the three second interval necessary due to the cycle time of writing each frame to the drive?
Roger
(Looks very "sniperish", eh? Sort of inherent in the design, I suppose.)
paulcotto wrote:
Here are some pictures. This is in the early, early development stages so it looks very crude, but it works. The frames are transfered by USB cable as 640X480 TIF's. Registration is good and focus is by a X Y macro stage. Here are the location of the pix, click the link
Cool! Looks great! Any photos of the completed unit? Is the three second interval necessary due to the cycle time of writing each frame to the drive?
Roger
(Looks very "sniperish", eh? Sort of inherent in the design, I suppose.)
Yes, the three seconds are due to the file transfer from the camera via USB. This is the second attempt at making this type of device. It's not finished yet and I have had the idea for a long time, ever since I saw the J&K version and thought I could do it much cheaper. That’s not a knock on J&K because his version is much more precise I’m sure. I am not a trained engineer just a hardware hacker. I only know enough about electricity to be dangerous so I stick to low voltage DC. The motor is slowed down with an interval timer which bumps the motor around in small jolts. I tried making a dc motor controller but it would not turn the motor slowly enough. I’m an aircraft structural repair tech in the USAF by trade.
Don't worry about equipment so much and make your movie!
paulcotto wrote:
I only know enough about electricity to be dangerous so I stick to low voltage DC. The motor is slowed down with an interval timer which bumps the motor around in small jolts.
Paul
I am doing something along these lines using a Eumig 610D projector.
How would I know the rating of the DC motor if you want to take out the AC motor and put a DC motor instead. Also, how do you slow down the DC motor using an interval timer? Are you saying you are connecting and disconnecting the power source to the DC motor in what resembles a jolt?
Lunar07
paulcotto wrote:
I only know enough about electricity to be dangerous so I stick to low voltage DC. The motor is slowed down with an interval timer which bumps the motor around in small jolts.
Paul
I am doing something along these lines using a Eumig 610D projector.
How would I know the rating of the DC motor if you want to take out the AC motor and put a DC motor instead. Also, how do you slow down the DC motor using an interval timer? Are you saying you are connecting and disconnecting the power source to the DC motor in what resembles a jolt?
Lunar07
I am using a surplus motor origianly for a garage door opener that is rated for 90 volts dc which I am running at 12 volts dc. The intreval timer turns the motor off and on in small steps, about 1/6 turn per step so yes you understand me correctly. You should check out surplus dealers for parts because they are much cheaper than going to supply houses. Here are some links>
How much do you want for it!
