kinor 16cx

[greyskale]

anyone here ever used this camera?
have any opinions to share?

[Evan Kubota]

Never used it but I've certainly drooled after the ones on eBay. Assuming it can run standard pitch film, where else can you get a crystal synced 16mm camera with 2 mags, the body, a lens, and the motor for under $1000? Are these MOS only or are they fairly quiet?

[greyskale]

"Are these MOS only or are they fairly quiet?"

not sure at all. i was hoping someone here has used one. i am interested in how reliable they are as well. i hear the k3s are built like tanks, and i'm really interested in the kinor if it has a similar build.[/quote]

[Arriflex]

where else can you get a crystal synced

It's NOT crystal synced. Needs a blimp for sound shooting, it's not as loud as k3, but much more noisier than arri bl. And for super16 mod not the best choice imo.

[greyskale]

not totally interseted in super 16... but i like the compact "stubby" build of the camera. i also want reloadable mags, so it seems like a good buy to me. my main concern is reliabillity, and sturdiness. i run and gun, do alot of hand held stuff, and tend to be fairly rough on my cameras.

[Herb Montes]

Best places to find out about Russian cameras like the Kinor is at the forum for those who use them:

http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/Konvas

And there is a website with information on this camera:

http://www.commiecam.com/

[clivetobin]

where else can you get a crystal synced 16mm camera ?

These are not crystal, they are 25 FPS governor-controlled with a 50 Hz pilot generator. All the connectors are strange ones seen nowhere else on the planet.

We used to do a crystal conversion of the motors, the TXM-9/U ("U" for Uglicam, as one of our first customers called it.) This had a standard XLR connector for power, and 24, 25 and 30 FPS speeds. We are too busy these days to solicit this type of time-consuming conversion.

[Evan Kubota]

The eBay descriptions are often rather poor - I didn't realize it used a pilot tone. So you're saying that given the connector that comes with it, actually using the 50 Hz tone is impossible?

[jukkasil]

where else can you get a crystal synced 16mm camera ?

These are not crystal, they are 25 FPS governor-controlled with a 50 Hz pilot generator. All the connectors are strange ones seen nowhere else on the planet.

We used to do a crystal conversion of the motors, the TXM-9/U ("U" for Uglicam, as one of our first customers called it.) This had a standard XLR connector for power, and 24, 25 and 30 FPS speeds. We are too busy these days to solicit this type of time-consuming conversion.

Olex makes not-crystal synced conversion (5 speed) for it at price 150 euro nowadays, I'll send my motor to him very soon.

Clive, is there any possibilities to use your Bolex 1:1 motor in Kinor (16 M2) like they use your time lapse motor in Konvas 2M? I noticed, that Kinor is also 1:1 type of camera.

[clivetobin]

The eBay descriptions are often rather poor - I didn't realize it used a pilot tone. So you're saying that given the connector that comes with it, actually using the 50 Hz tone is impossible?

If you can find a plug to fit, or replace their plug with something sensible, there is no reason the pilot signal would not work. It puts out a strong signal and everything is gear driven.

Poor Ebay descriptions? Perish the thought. ;-)

[clivetobin]

Clive, is there any possibilities to use your Bolex 1:1 motor in Kinor (16 M2) like they use your time lapse motor in Konvas 2M? I noticed, that Kinor is also 1:1 type of camera.

I don't know, I have never tried it. If you have a good machinist it would be a possibility. Our Bolex crystal motors (TXM-20Ba and TXM-20Be) are only $495 while I think we used to charge $895-995 for converting the existing motor.

Our motors should give a much wider range of speeds also since the governor motors are generally designed so they run only a little faster than the desired speed (25) before governing is applied.

I don't recall which direction the Kinor motor needs to turn, if our motor turns the wrong way you just swap the two wires going to the built-in basic motor (not the DC power going into the electronics!)