Dr_Strange_Love wrote:Does anybody have a link to a detailed guide for E6 processing?I googled but nothing reasonable came up.
Thanks
I came across this link the other day. http://www.woodlandsphoto.org/~gcarlson ... essing.htm
I'm thinking of getting started on this myself. I'll be using a G3 rewind processor so my times will be much different. But by how much I don't know. Anyone?
Can the tank be floated in a warm water bath?...and can you accurately time your processing such that every section of the film is in the chemicals for the same time? Timing and temperature are *crucial* with E6...far more than B&W processing where 30 seconds or a couple of degrees leeway usually don't matter.
The government says that by 2010 30% of us will be fat....I am merely a trendsetter
Angus wrote:I am not sure E6 is possible in a G3 rewind tank.
Can the tank be floated in a warm water bath?...and can you accurately time your processing such that every section of the film is in the chemicals for the same time? Timing and temperature are *crucial* with E6...far more than B&W processing where 30 seconds or a couple of degrees leeway usually don't matter.
The tank is capable of being inserted into a water bath as long as the area around the lid is above the water line. As for the time, I'm not sure of. This is what I need to know.
Angus wrote:You get specific instructions for E6 processing with whatever kit of chemicals you choose to buy.
Each manufacturer's kit might have slightly different instructions but you have two options...a 3 bath kit and a 6 bath kit.
For the former you normally have a 1st developer, a colour developer and a bleach/fix. These may come as concentrates that you dilute to 1 litre or 2 litres. Unfortunately once diluted the shelf life isn't as good as B&W chemicals, we're talking 6 months max.
The first step (in the 3 step process) is the first developer.
There will be a specified time and temperature. Altering the time you can push/pull process...better kits will give timings for achieving push/pull by one or two stops. Cheap kits might leave you to guess at push/pull times.
For the colour developer temperature is *critical*. If your film is out of date you can experiment and adjust the colours by having this step warmer (or longer timing)...or colder.
The bleach/fix is, I believe, less critical in timing but the kit's instructions will give a temperature and time and I've never deviated from this.
Other than those, you obviously wash for 2-4 minutes with water between each step. There is no re-exposing to light. Temperatures usually have to be observed to +/- 0.5 degrees centigrade to guarantee correct processing. You'll need a reasonable quality laboratory thermometer. These are usually available at any camera shop that sells E6 kits but they charge a LOT more than they're really worth (I know, I can buy the things direct from the suppliers - or just "borrow" one from work!)
I hope that helps. i've not used a 6 bath kit before but I am told they don't necessarily give better results - however the film may last longer with less fading.
Thanks Angus, you've really made it seem quite simple. good guide!
By the way this thread should be a ''sticky'' since most of us are probably going to try process 64T by ourselves.
vidwerk wrote:
The tank is capable of being inserted into a water bath as long as the area around the lid is above the water line. As for the time, I'm not sure of. This is what I need to know.
vidwerk.
I've never handled a Doran tank I've only seen photos...I do know that the timings can be calculated according to how many times you wind the film back and forth. Maybe somebody who uses one can tell us how they alter B&W timings and we can work it out from there?
The government says that by 2010 30% of us will be fat....I am merely a trendsetter
Angus wrote:
I've never handled a Doran tank I've only seen photos...I do know that the timings can be calculated according to how many times you wind the film back and forth. Maybe somebody who uses one can tell us how they alter B&W timings and we can work it out from there?
When processing Double-X negative (7222) stock, I found that the developer(HC 100:B) @ 20 to 25 min(passes) worked out OK. I'm wondering if this can be estimated by comparing it to processing TMAX 100 35mm still film. I process my still film in HC-110:B for 6min in full contact with chemical. ie- 6min(for still film) multiplied by 4 to get to 24min for the equivalent in a G3. Therefore E6 35mm still processing time(?) in minutes multipled by 4 to average out it's time in a G3. Just a theory. Maybe someone here actually knows and can shed some light.
The pubs at the following page are specifically related to the Kodak single use kit, which is what I use. The T12443 publication on that page is very direct and provides steps and process times for several different developnig methods (rotary, small tank, large tank, etc)
JOBO USA Darkroom has all the information on Tetanal E-6 that used to be on the JOBO-USA web site. The Color Transparency Film Process page has links to all the Tetanal six step and three step process information.
That should be all the information you need for E-6, but if you run into difficulty, search photo.net for E-6 info. There's a ton of it there.
I still have to translate the bottom third, but use babelfish or see the pics in teh meantime. Working on it. Let me know if anything is unclear, I am not native english and these are all weird terms
I used this a dozen of times now with E-6 for various films -- Ekatchrome 160 as well as old AGFA-OEMs etc. Results are really nice.
Looking at peaceman's design reminded me of a tank I got s/h in the 70's
it was called a Todd Tank procceser worked on the same system but had a motor drive for rotation of the drum.
Very little chemicals used the model I had, did 55ft std8 (16mm) and used
18 floz (UK) of solution (1 litre = 35floz 1 pint UK = 20floz).
Made of perspex (plexiglass) hence it bit the dust years ago
only the manual let now,which says it is sutable for colour film as well (i only used it for b&w then)
Angus wrote:I am not sure E6 is possible in a G3 rewind tank.
Can the tank be floated in a warm water bath?...and can you accurately time your processing such that every section of the film is in the chemicals for the same time? Timing and temperature are *crucial* with E6...far more than B&W processing where 30 seconds or a couple of degrees leeway usually don't matter.
I have done E-6 processing in my Morse G3, using a continuous water jacket feed in my basement tubs. Once the plumbing temperature stabilizes it's not hard to hold to 104F or whatever temperature you're aiming for. But you may go thru a lot of water if you're having trouble with the faucets.
gurra83 wrote:I'm thinking about trying out a simple bathroom bucketprocessing. If proccessing as a neg it should be so easy that even i should be able to manage.
I have a few questions though. Do you simply stir the film when you agitate it? Would i not have total film sallad after this?
Indeed you do. The emulsion will have nicks and scratches on it, moreso if you use blunt instruments to stir with. I use rubber gloves and stir by hand (in total darkness). Use LOTS of cold water in final rinse, and squeegie the film with your bare fingers prior to drying, otherwise you'll have streaks and stains on your film.
Or is it an ancient 16mm/R8 brick box?
