An Everest Super 8 Camera?

Post by **audadvnc** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:39 am

"If I Recall Correctly"

Post by **S8 Booster** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 8:22 am

the russian quarz is the most powerful cam of the bunch. 2 of the most experienced posters on this board effectively confirmed that they were the only cams able to pull through the real bad carts (blocking with other camz)withouth a hitch AND no jitter at the same time.

surely need no lube in the 1st place since it is designed for siberia.

anyhow no lube will be fine due to limited time of operation.

16mm? well, the canon scoopics were originally designed for n japanese antartic expidition in 1965 so it is the tool to use.

anyhow, who on earth would carry a 3.5kg (or more) cam vs a 1.1kg cam (quarz) to everest (there aint much oxygen over 3500m and less by the meter over that) and also loose the advantage of instamatic film load?

well?.......

s/hoot

Post by **Sparky** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:12 am

from http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professi ... html#51285

Motion-Picture Cameras

Electrically powered motion-picture cameras are generally better than spring-driven models if a generator or another source of electricity is available. Batteries are not a dependable power source when they are exposed to extreme cold for extended periods.

Film in rolls is less likely to break in the camera than film in magazines. You can load magazine and cartridge-type motion-picture cameras easily and quickly in the field, but there is no practical way to winterize magazines and cartridges. If you use magazines or cartridges, we recommend keeping each day's working reserve as warm as possible inside your parka. Another way to keep film warm is to carry it in an insulated thermal bag with a few small hand warmers. Place the hand warmers in plastic bags to protect the film from damage from fumes.

and

With motion-picture films, a rapid loss of moisture at low temperatures may cause curling and brittleness. You can minimize these problems by using films coated on an ESTAR Base. These films maintain their flexibility and strength better than films coated on an acetate base.

so maybe single8 would be the best option.

Mark

Post by **S8 Booster** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:23 am

Sparky wrote: so maybe single8 would be the best option.

Mark

yeah, they can be hand cranked too - at least some.

never had a problem with properly lubed carts in the cold down to -20Ã‚Â°C but of course reel to reel systems are better then cart/mags IF you are able to load the cam. original Kodak 60m mags stuck immediately around 0Ã‚Â°C.

however the quarz... - according to Mssrs and board members Leugers and Old Uncle Barry,.. the Quarz / Russian Tank "takes no prisoners"

have one my self - incredibly robust camera.

threading a 16mm cam in -50Ã‚Â°C and a mild winter storm? well anybody may try that. break the film is the least problem. polyester film is probably the by far best option. KACCEMA carts can be DIY lubed AND loaded with polyester film.

s/hoot.

Post by **Steve P.** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:39 am

Actor:

I find a good resource for these crazy Ã¢â‚¬Ëœnet words and abbreviations is

http://www.urbandictionary.com/

If you use Firefox (the browser), itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s Ã¢â‚¬Å“slang queryÃ¢â‚¬Â in the location dialogue: typing Ã¢â‚¬Å“slang IIRCÃ¢â‚¬Â into Firefox would take you to the URL

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=IIRC

dictionary.com is quite good too, and sometimes Wikipedia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

Post by **jpolzfuss** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:04 am

It looks like B&H made some spring-wound Super8-cams, too:
http://lavender.fortunecity.com/lavende ... meras.html
(They do need a battery for the light-meter, though)

M'Lord · Post by **M'Lord** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 12:22 pm

S8 Booster wrote:buy two of these:

http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/ ... 1x8s-2.htm

s/hoot

Thank you for the recommendation. Looks very appropriate. Is this a selenium light metered model?

Post by **mattias** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 12:27 pm

no, sadly it needs batteries.

/matt

Post by **MovieStuff** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 12:43 pm

Well, most likely you'll be above the clouds so you could easily pretest for different lighting conditions when testing the camera's transport. Wait for a cloudless day and try shooting someone against a white wall outside at various exposures. Make a note of which looks best and use that when you get to the top! ;)

Roger

Post by **Patrick** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:07 pm

Incidentally, a film crew (and probably a few sherpas too) lugged an IMAX camera up Mount Everest to film the big screen documentary movie 'Everest.'

M'Lord · Post by **M'Lord** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:23 pm

I am uncertain if I really wish to go to the summit, it is more the adventurous exploration of an exotic land and breath-taking vistas that intrigues me. Going to the actual summit appears quite miserable. The spectacular scenery and quaint people, quite appealing.

Post by **drsanchez** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:13 pm

Patrick wrote:Incidentally, a film crew (and probably a few sherpas too) lugged an IMAX camera up Mount Everest to film the big screen documentary movie 'Everest.'

Not only that, they put down their equipment to save some lives, then continued shooting. Read "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer (sp?). Though it's been criticized for slight embellishment, it is an incredibly-gripping story.

Post by **lord_rover** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:50 pm

What does "IIRC" mean?

If I Remember Correctly

Post by **steve hyde** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:55 pm

...Everest is the most expensive and least attractive mountain in the range. Why climb that slag heap when there are hundreds of unclimbed 6000m peaks that are made of granite instead of oceanic choss?...

Super 8 camera at altitude? I'd take a Nikon R10 (actually three of them) and an intervelometer, many cartridges of E64 for the mountain, a polarizing filter and a few sets of lithium batteries.. I'd also bring a lot of cartridges of color negative for tea house interriors, monestaries etc....

your batteries will work just fine if you keep them inside your parka. The cold temps might seize up the camera's lubrication though..

Steve

M'Lord · Post by **M'Lord** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:19 pm

Thank you for the recommendation. A sturdy camera. What you describe is more what I would enjoy.

I believe you may be correct in that if I have my batteries in my pocket until needed, it should do. So a battery powered camera, without a seperate light meter battery, which has an easily removed and installed battery pack kept in my pocket. Many possibilites, then. But it must be metal and sturdy metal as it will be knocked around some.

The Nikon is a fine camera, but that handle makes it bulky and packing is a factor. It is not to be ruled out though, so far, a grand Himalayn adventure camera needs to be:

Compact, made of sturdy metal, and have a seperate battery pack for cold climates to keep in your pocket. Or perhaps a seperate remote battery pack to keep in the pocket. It would be nice if the camera fit in my pocket. The Nikon cannot.