Filmshooting

Thank you kindly!!!

Looks like a little update is in order, considering the great discussion at hand. Thanks, guys, for resurrecting this thread, and for contributing some valuable points-of-view.

The reason for sticking with the Minolta D10 was that it was FREE to me, and I am trying to keep this hobby on a ...

I do a lot of audio work, so I can say with confidence that the Alesis situation is a little different. I'm assuming then that laying down video across the whole tape might be helpful in some circumstances, but that would be the exception, not the rule. Perhaps it would be most helpful when the ...

Rollef appreciates the beauty of this outfit too! Actually, the case and its gear would be cool enough for James Bond -- well, at least it would be if it were a fraction of its size.

David, thank you for a compelling dissenting argument. It just seems like not that many people are willing to ...

If those options are too expensive, you can also record "wild" to ANY format that is oscillator-controlled (so speed is always exactly constant and stable) and "fix" sync in software later. That is to say, ALL video cameras, plus any digital-audio format, will suffice. This includes the latest ...

Here's another vote for fast winding. Even if the tape does run across the heads, the wear is insignificant, and also proportional to the time it takes (which is relatively short). Consider that the drum is rotating 30 times per second when in use, so the rotational velocity of the head across the ...

Perhaps not, but the estimate is [i]supposed[/i] to include "recalibrating" the light meter -- if it can be done. Based on others' D10s still working OK, it's a little odd that this one has such a severe problem, and makes it seem realistic for this to be fixable.

On the other hand, I could spend ...

Very true, thanks, but we caught that one too. (Manual fades accomplished this way.) The F stop numbers are WAY off -- you get a readout response from almost no light.

Tell me where to make an adjustment -- with paint-by-numbers-simple instructions -- and I'd be tempted!

Tally so far: two no's and one yes!

I really appreciate the help, guys. Thanks for a smile, Reflex, but for sure don't let [i]me[/i] near it with tools -- it's sure to not survive!

Rick, you're right - I didn't explain myself well. But yes, we have tried the D10 with exposure locked (which is ...

With all the talk here about Leicinas, Beaulieus, Nikon R10s, and Canon 814/1014s, I can presume what the answer might be. Still, I appeal to our helpful, knowledgable friends on this forum for your 2 cents.

A Minolta Autopak-8 D10 was "loaned" to me under the pretense that if I wanted it, I could ...

What did you make the plug out of? (I was thinking chewing gum, but it would be too soft unless really old... ewwww)

The first time I tried 64T was on an Elmo camera with only 40/160 auto settings, and getting an exact auto-exposure setting required the following: determining that the camera reads the 64 notch as 160; setting the exposure compensation to +2 stops (the closest option available); then decreasing the ...

I've had an 80A for years and never quite found the need to use it, but assumed that it was the same 2/3rds stop as with converting daylight to tungsten film. Wow, what a difference. Thanks for the clarification, Will.

[quote="Will2"]
Also, a higher speed 400D would give you 125asa with an 80A filter.
[/quote]


Will meant 250ASA, yes? (even better, if faster=better)

Doh! Of course, why didn't I think of that?

I've learned a couple of things here, Mattias, thank you.