Filmshooting

Thanks Mitch, that is very helpful. I gave all that a go and had some partial success. After poking those switches above the red wire you mention, the camera motor does indeed run, indicating that solenoid is working. This would leave, I guess, the trigger switch block. Unless you advise against it ...

Thanks Mitch (and thanks also to AJ for sending me some JPGs of his Nizo).

I cleaned up the area, stripped back the white wires, soldered them back where they were (either side of the diode), and... no luck. All I can think of is either a dead solenoid or worse, e.g. no current is getting to the ...

Definitely agree. Fantastic, high quality magazine. I will no doubt renew my subscription for 08. Sadly don't know many shooters so can't recommend in person, but I will do so here!

All the very best in securing the support of the Big Yellow, you deserve it!

Thanks. Might give it a go if I have no luck with the DIY method... I am sure it just needs a new component. Does anyone know if solenoids can just stop working?

Hi, I wonder if any filmshooter here (with a knowledge of electronics!) has come across this problem and might know a way of fixing it?

I recently won a Nizo Pro off ebay, very cheap as seller could not run it. Indeed the motor doesn't run (but everything else seems to works fine, e.g. light-meter ...

For a simple standards conversion (PAL <> NTSC) on PCs, VirtualDub (virtualdub.org) does a great job, but you have to set the paramaters (frame size, FPS) manually. There is also an MPEG2 version that allows you open VOB files directly, so you can do your conversion and export for viewing or re ...

Great idea Bjiarne, will give it a go. OT: Are you getting your emails ok? I sent you a new manual for the Canon Scoopic a while back...
Tom

[quote="But your little order stands not alone, and if any of these little orders should become big, it is hoped they will be for film, if best suited to the project. Perhaps you have a film-project story to send to In Camera?

Mitch

This is the best idea I've heard so far... if we can get Kodak ...

Spain, Brazil, New Zealand, Italy and South Africa to UK no problems so far with fresh or exposed S8/16mm stock. I usually say I have film + camera equipment in my hand-luggage as a courtesy, so they are less likely to want to inspect. If you have a lot of stock, especially 16mm it is good to ring ...

Good idea, I will give that a go, but I don't really know my way around Super8Wiki. Can you PM some instructions to add a new page etc?
Cheers
Tom

I borrowed another meter just to be sure, and the internal meter was definitely out by a good stop and a bit. It was fairly straight forward to adjust, so if anyone wants to know this is what I did. I opened the top cover of the Electric Eye (EE) below,

http://www.tdelfs.plus.com/filmshooting ...

In case anyone missed it, an interview with the light painter himself: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/hub/incam.jhtml

BTW, InCamera is not exactly small gauge, but they cover S16 and occasionally S8. It is also sent out free.

Tom

Is the lens on the M sharper than the old grey models? Those lenses are kind of soft to me.
I don't know yet, I hope to do some tests soon and I will try various stops to see where it performs better, I need to do that to check the light meter is working anyway.

Vidwerk, thanks for the info on ...

Thanks vidwerk, I'll give that a go. I've since found out that it is possible to adjust the sensitivity of the internal lightmeter by adjusting a potentiometer housed inside the front block on top of the Electronic Eye.
So if it is out at least there are DIY options. I have a page from the repair ...

Anyone? Vidwerk, you might know this one.
Cheers